Benriach Distillery, near Elgin, is a short walk from its sister distillery, Longmorn. The distillery was constructed in 1898 at the height of the Victorian whisky boom but soon fell silent, not resuming production again until 1965. “Visiting Benriach is always a pleasure, whether it be to select casks, or to enjoy the victorian charm of their super-rare on-site floor maltings. The site is arranged around a thoroughfare, with each part of the process taking place around this central spine. A place, and a spirit, that is evocative of a bygone age.” This vibrant Speysider has spent the last two years of its life in a sweet ex- Pedro Ximénez butt, giving a spicy nose full of sticky gingerbread, clove rock and liquorice. A little water coaxes out some juicy pear notes and a touch of underripe mango The palate is a touch drying at full strength, offering ginger, pepper and sweet plum wine. A little time and dilution show a more complex dram, with layers of fruit, spice and a touch of oak. This is a vigorous whisky perfect for enjoying after dinner alongside dessert. “This dram shows the savoury side of ex-Pedro Ximenez cask maturation. Black Tea and various chocolates are interwoven on the nose with the darkest cherries and musk rose. The palate develops this theme with Turkish Delight, a whisp of woodsmoke and various fruits of the forest. Some enervating tartness of lingering berries round out proceedings with aplomb. There is wonderful work going on here in this quiet corner of Speyside.”